Two streetcar operators pose in front of an Oakland Temescal and Berkeley streetcar filled with passengers.

Taking a Turn Through Temescal

Amit Cohen

One of the trendiest areas in Oakland is Temescal, a neighborhood centered around Telegraph Avenue in northern Oakland that has a long history stretching back to Oakland’s early days.

Temescal, which means “sweat house” in the Aztec language of Nahuatl, gets its name from the Temescal Creek that runs through the neighborhood. The attraction of living near the creek drew many to the area in the 1800s, but increasing urban development resulted in trash and other pollutants infiltrating the stream. After years of burying the creek to prevent flooding, recent efforts have aimed to better utilize this landmark to provide recreational green space for residents and visitors alike.

Infrastructure played a key role in Temescal’s development. Originally part of farmland owned by Vincente Peralta, a Spanish landowner, the neighborhood developed around a road with a telegraph line that allowed “long-range” communication between Oakland and places as far as Sacramento. This street was combined with a parallel road to create the iconic Telegraph Avenue. Temescal grew rapidly during the late 19th century in part due to its proximity to the Oakland Railroad, a streetcar that ran from downtown Oakland all the way to Berkeley. The expansions of the streetcar system under Francis Marion “Borax” Smith helped turn Temescal from a peaceful, green suburb into a bustling area—in the 1870s, the price of an acre of land rose from $200 to $1,200 in just two years!

Throughout its history, Temescal has drawn visitors with attractions ranging from animal entertainment to trendy brunch restaurants. Smith opened Idora Park, an amusement park with a roller coaster, theater, and bear pit, in the early 1900s to bring residents to the area. Temescal was also home to Lusk Cannery, the largest cannery in the world. Run by the J. Lusk Canning Company, the factory eventually turned into a brewery in 1911, foreshadowing future waves of urban revitalization. Initially known for its large Italian population, Temescal also became more diverse during the 1900s, with notable immigration from Ethiopia and Eritrea [7]. Today, Temescal is rapidly gentrifying, with high-end retail and dining increasing housing prices in an already expensive market, although groups such as #WeStillHere and Causa Justa are organizing efforts to aid current residents against displacement.

Cover image credit: Oakland North

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