Bird’s eye view of Lake Merritt in Oakland, CA.

The Crown Jewel of Oakland

Amit Cohen

Nestled at the foot of the Oakland Hills and bordering the San Francisco Bay, Oakland sits within a spectacular natural setting. However, visiting parks and preserves east of the city can require people to take long transit rides or own a car. Lake Merritt offers a convenient alternative: located in the heart of Oakland, the lake and its attractions have their own BART station and can be accessed by multiple bus lines.

Lake Merritt’s story begins 10,000 years ago, when rising tides formed a tidal lagoon connected to the Bay by a small river. The swamp housed diverse wildlife and served as a fishing ground for the indigenous Ohlone Tribe. 

Map of the Lake Merritt shoreline in 1857.
The Lake Merritt shoreline pre-dam construction. Credit: Daniel T. McMahon/ UC Berkeley School of Information

However, the arrival of Spanish and American settlers changed this natural landscape. By the 1860s, settlers were directing sewage into the swamp; they continued to pollute the water until nearby landowner and then-Oakland mayor Samuel Merritt decided to act. In 1868, Merritt led the construction of a dam, transforming the swamp into the 155-acre lake that would carry his name. He also pushed for the lake to be classified as a National Wildlife Refuge, the first of its kind in North America. In part due to Merritt’s advocacy, Lake Merritt is still home to hundreds of birds, fish, and rare crustacean species. Non-native animals such as sea lions, bat rays, and leopard sharks have also been spotted.

Despite its diverse marine life, Lake Merritt’s water quality has suffered due to its urban context. Once called the “Lake of 1,000 Smells,” Lake Merritt has been afflicted by pollution and contaminated runoff from nearby developments. Efforts such as Measure DD, a $200 million bond approved in 2002 to improve Lake Merritt and clean its waters, have met mixed results as the water quality has not drastically improved. Future programs may be needed to ensure that both Oakland residents and wildlife can continue to enjoy Lake Merritt’s many amenities.

Cover image credit: Visit Oakland

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